How to Sew Reverse Applique

If you’re learning hand embroidery and want a fun way to practice, reverse appliqué is a great place to start. It’s kind of like cutting a shape out of paper—but with fabric and thread!

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Reverse embroidery is simply stitching around your design, cutting it out, and letting a cool fabric peek through from underneath.

This sweatshirt reverse embroidery project is simple, fun, and makes an awesome gift too. Plus, you’ll get to practice stitches like the backstitch without needing anything too fancy.

What is a Reverse Appliqué?

Reverse appliqué is a way to decorate fabric by cutting shapes out of the top layer so you can see a different fabric underneath. It’s kind of like peeling back part of a sticker to show a fun color or pattern hiding below.

You sew around your shape first, then carefully cut out the top fabric inside the stitches. The fabric behind it shows through, and it makes your design pop! It’s an easy and cool way to make clothes or gifts look extra special.

What is a Backstitch?

The backstitch is one of the most fundamental embroidery stitches. It’s used to outline shapes and create strong, continuous lines.

In reverse appliqué, the backstitch is perfect for securing your design and adding a nice decorative outline that won’t unravel.

VIDEO: How to Sew a Backstitch

What Other Projects Can I Use Reverse Appliqué On?

Once you’ve learned the basics, reverse appliqué can be used on all kinds of projects:

Tote bags – Add a monogram or simple shape to personalize a plain canvas bag.
Throw pillows – Create graphic patterns or nature-inspired shapes.
Baby onesies – Adorable and soft personalized gifts.
Table runners or placemats – Add subtle designs to elevate your table setting.
Denim jackets – Add bold designs on the back panel or cuffs.

The possibilities are endless once you get comfortable with the technique.

How to Reverse Appliqué a Sweatshirt (Step-by-Step Instructions)

Supplies:

A Plain Sweatshirt
Scrap Fabric (enough to cover your design)
Embroidery hoop
Embroidery floss
Embroidery Needle
Transfer Paper or Fabric Marking Pen
Cricut EasyPress Mini

To create your design you can type out a font in Word or in a program like Canva. Measure how long and wide you want your lettering and adjust the size accordingly.

The sweater in this tutorial is a kids size 8. My lettering is 8.5" x 2".

Step 1

Draw your design (a shape or lettering works well) onto the front of your sweatshirt using a washable fabric marker. OR print the design on Fabri-Solvy transfer paper and stick to the front of the sweatshirt.

Step 2

Cut a piece of your scrap fabric slightly larger than your design. Pin or glue it behind the design on the inside of the sweatshirt. Make sure the right side is facing the back of the sweatshirt. Make sure it's centered behind your drawn design.

Step 3

If you have a smaller design, you can place the sweatshirt in an embroidery hoop.

Using a backstitch and 3-4 layers of embroidery floss, backstitch along the outline of your drawn design.

Step 4

Carefully snip into the top layer of the sweatshirt (not the backing fabric!) inside your stitched outline so the fabric you pinned on the inside shows.

Gently cut away the sweatshirt fabric inside the shape, about 1/8" from the stitching line, to reveal the colorful fabric underneath.

Step 5

Once you’ve cut out your shape, if you used transfer paper, spray with water or place under the faucet to remove that transfer. Allow it to dry completely. Give the area a gentle press with an iron.

That’s it! You now have a custom piece with a handmade touch.

See? That wasn’t too hard—and now you’ve got a cool, handmade sweatshirt to wear or give to a friend! Reverse appliqué is a fun way to practice your stitches and make something that feels totally you. Once you try it, you’ll probably start thinking of all kinds of things you can add it to!

💡 Want to learn more embroidery basics? Check out our Beginner's Guide to Hand Embroidery to explore stitches, supplies, and beginner tips that’ll have you stitching with confidence.

Easy reverse applique sweatshirt tutorial for fun beginner embroidery practice.